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Tag: caulfield

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Chimney Restoration Williamstown Vic.

This chimney has movement through brickwork due to weeds growing through it over many years and also deterioration of render.

Mortar is “Lime Mortar” meaning mainly lime and sand which over time becomes soft and sandy. Reason for using “Lime Mortar” is when old handmade bricks are used, they are usually soft and if the mortar or render is stronger than the handmade brick the mortar can pull the face of the handmade brick. It is important not to use any mortar or render stronger than the brick

Note even the lead flashing is in poor condition.

Works here involves removing existing render and moulds, removing loose brickwork and replacing any deteriorated bricks using lime mortar mix with a little cement.

Running of moulds to original profiles, rendered and new lead flashing to  complete full chimney restoration.

Before

After   

Author adminPosted on January 26, 2021June 9, 2021Tags balwyn, box hill, brighton, bulleen, camberwell, canterbury, caulfield, chimney, Cornice, Damage, doncaster, elsternwick, elwood, external plastering, glen iris, hawthorn, Installation. Plaster, ivanhoe, melbourne suburbs, middle park, Plaster, plastering, rendering, Repair, repairs, Restore, richmond, sandringham, solid, south melbourn, St. Kilda, surrey hills, toorak, walls, Water

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Box Gutter / Rainwater Head

For a box gutter to work at its best, it has to have an emergency overflow so that water has somewhere to go in the event of the gutter being blocked or extremely heavy rainfall. If there is not such an overflow, the water will go straight into the roof space and into your building and this can cause a number of problems.  Most good box gutters have the emergency overflow however.  For further protection, you can also install a gutter guard so that leaves and debris cannot block up the gutters and you also have the advantage of birds, pests and other vermin being unable to enter your roof space.  The box gutter also needs to be correctly sloped to the outlet points in order to prevent ponding (water standing in the gutters and potentially causing corrosion).

Rainheads are an essential design element for buildings where internal box or trough gutters are used. A rainhead or sump is a container located between the gutter and down pipe that aids the flow of water away from the roof. It acts as an external overflow point to reduce water surges into the storm  water system and aid the flow of water down the down pipe. Because rainheads are positioned outside, they minimise the risk of water overflow inside a building. The addition of an overflow provision provides even greater protection against water overflow in extreme conditions.

This video from Dam Busters explain how rainheads are installed and works

 

Author adminPosted on May 24, 2020February 6, 2021Tags balwyn, box hill, brighton, bulleen, camberwell, canterbury, caulfield, ceiling, chimney, Cornice, Damage, doncaster, elsternwick, elwood, external plastering, garage plaster ceiling, glen iris, hawthorn, Installation. Plaster, ivanhoe, lath, melbourne suburbs, middle park, Plaster, plastering, rendering, Repair, repairs, Restore, richmond, sagging, sandringham, solid, south melbourn, St. Kilda, surrey hills, toorak, wall, walls, Water

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Rising Damp

In simple terms rising damp occurs when ground water travels upwards through porous building materials such as brick, sandstone, or mortar, much in the same way that oil travels upwards through the wick of a lamp.

Rising damp can be identified by a characteristic “tide mark” on the lower section of affected walls. This tide mark is caused by soluble salts (particularly nitrates and chlorides) contained in the groundwater. Due to the effects of evaporation these salts accumulate at the “peak” of the rising damp.  Due to rising damp often being caused by moisture from wet ground, it is not common to find rising damp on floors above ground level.

Having thus taken care that the air and moisture shall have no chance of rising into the house from the ground beneath the floor, we must now turn our attention to the walls, which is equally necessary to protect from rising damp. If you plant a brick or stone wall on ground which is capable of retaining moisture, it will inevitably happen that unless you take means to stop its progress, the moisture will climb up the walls in obedience to the law of capillary attraction. The way to prevent this is to insert above the ground level but below the floor level, either a course of vitrified stoneware made on purpose, or two layers of slates laid in cement, or some equally effective impervious material, the intervention of which between two courses of brickwork bars will prevent the further upward progress of the damp.

As to the damp-proof course, however, it is possible by knowing what to look for, and where to look, to find out for a certainty whether there is or is not such a thing. Examine carefully the joints of brickwork between the ground and the level of the lower floor. A vitrified stoneware damp-course will be conspicuous from its perforations, and the difference in colour between it and the bricks. Asphalt or slates or cement alone will all appear, the two latter like mortar joints about three or four times the usual thickness. A favourite material  is tarred or asphalted felt, the presence of which can generally be detected by portions of it projecting from the wall. 

Diagnosis of rising damp

The first step in assessing damp is to check for standing water. Removing water with good drainage will remove any form of dampness. Once done, and dampness remains, the next step is to look for the presence of a damp-proof course. If a damp-proof course is present, it is likely to be functioning, as the materials from which damp proof courses are manufactured tend to have a long lifespan. However, it should be acknowledged that there are cases where existing damp proof courses fail for one reason or another.

One indicator that is often used to determine if the source of dampness is rising damp (rather than other forms of dampness) is to look for the presence of salts – in particular a tell tale “salt band” or “tide mark” at the peak of the damp’s rise. This is not a reliable method as salts and dampness can enter the fabric of the wall in other ways – e.g. unwashed sea sand or gravel used in the construction of the wall.

If there is no damp-proof course and rising damp is suspected (tide mark, moisture confined to lower section of wall etc. …) then a number of diagnostic techniques can be used to determine the source of dampness. Obtaining samples of mortar in the affected wall using a drill and then analysing these samples to determine their moisture and salt content to assist in providing appropriate remedial building solutions. The fact that this technique is destructive to the wall finish often makes it unacceptable to homeowners. It is for this reason that electrical moisture meters are often used when surveying for rising damp. These instruments are unable to accurately measure the moisture content of masonry, as they were developed for use on timber, but the reading patterns that are achieved can provide useful indicators of the source of dampness.

Rising damp treatment

In many cases, damp is caused by “bridging” of a damp-proof course (DPC) that is otherwise working effectively. For example, a flower bed next to an affected wall might result in soil being piled up against the wall above the level of the DPC. In this example, moisture from the ground would be able to ingress through the wall from the soil. Such a damp problem could be rectified by simply lowering the flower bed to below DPC level.

Where a rising damp problem is caused by a lack of a damp-proof course (common in buildings over approximately 100 years old) or by a failed damp-proof course (comparatively rare) there are a wide range of possible solutions available. These include:

  • Replacement physical damp proof course
  • Injection of a liquid or cream chemical damp proof course (DPC Injection)
  • Damp-proofing rods
  • Porous tubes / other evaporative
  • Land drainage
  • Electrical-osmotic systems

Replacement physical damp proof course

An example of a damp proof course of slate in a brick wall intended to prevent rising damp

A physical damp proof course made from plastic can be installed into an existing building by cutting into short sections of the mortar course, and installing short sections of the damp proof course material. This method can provide an extremely effective barrier to rising damp, but is not widely used as it requires experienced contractors to carry out if structural movement is to be avoided and takes considerably longer to install than other types of rising damp treatment. The cost is also several times higher than for other types of rising damp treatment.

Injection of a liquid or cream chemical damp proof course (DPC Injection)

Injection of a liquid or cream into bricks or mortar is the most common method of treating rising damp. Liquid-injection products were introduced in the 1950s and were typically installed using funnels (gravity feed method) or pressured injection pumps. The effectiveness of liquid injection damp proofing products is dependent on the type of formulation and the skill of the installer. In practice injection times tend to be lower than those required to provide a damp proof course of optimum effectiveness.

Damp-Proofing Creams

Damp-proofing cream leaking from injection holes. This can make it difficult to ascertain whether sufficient cream has remained in the holes for treatment to be successful.

Since the early 2000s, damp-proofing creams have taken over from liquid products due to improved ease of application. As with liquid products these are based on silane/siloxane active ingredients which line the pores of the mortar to repel damp.

The effectiveness of liquid and cream based rising damp treatments varies considerably between products due to variations in product formulations. As with liquid injection systems, cream based treatments rely on the competence of the installer for treatment to be successful. Injection holes need to be fully cleared of drill dust and debris before the cream is injected, and it is often difficult to know if each injection hole has been completely filled with cream. Furthermore, damp-proofing cream can sometimes drip out of the injection holes after treatment, reducing the effectiveness of the damp-proofing treatment.

Author adminPosted on May 23, 2020February 6, 2021Tags balwyn, box hill, brighton, bulleen, camberwell, canterbury, caulfield, ceiling, chimney, Cornice, doncaster, elsternwick, external plastering, garage plaster ceiling, glen iris, hawthorn, Installation. Plaster, ivanhoe, melbourne suburbs, middle park, patch, Plaster, plastering, rendering, Repair, repairs, Restore, richmond, sagging, sandringham, solid, south melbourn, St. Kilda, surrey hills, toorak, walls, Water

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Plaster wall and ceiling cracks and repair.

Common reasons causing plaster walls and ceilings to crack and sag. 
  • Settlement in new homes
  • Foundation and movement especially for old homes
  • Very old plaster, deteriorating
  • Home distorting during strong winds
  • Water damage
  • Poor workmanship
  • Loads on ceiling and walls
  • Temperature fluctuations
Settlement in new homes

Wall and ceiling plaster cracking can appear after a few months of a new home being built due to settlement of foundations, timber walls, masonry walls and ceiling joists sagging/moving. This is expected with new homes and can generally be patched by re taping joints but if there are more serious cracks an engineer may needed to assess the issue then area removed and replaced with new plaster.

Foundation movement in old homes

Masonry walls often show stepped cracking commonly due to foundations moving whether soil drying due to droughts, tree roots, unstable soil and poor construction. There are a couple of methods I use when repairing cracks if they are minor but for serious plaster wall cracks usually underpinning may be required or large trees removed.

Old plaster deteriorating

Very old homes, 100 years plus with original lath and plaster simply deteriorate. Sometimes lath and plaster can be patched/restored but if in bad condition it is best to remove entire area and replace using plasterboard or if original plastering is desired I specialise in lath and plaster.

Plaster walls and ceilings in high winds

High winds cause houses to twist and ceiling to move up and down like a large sail. After a period of time this can cause ceiling to have “nails popping” or even collapse. This is very common in garage ceilings as droughts occur and not enough battens or large spacing of joists leaving the plaster ceiling with not enough fixing points to secure the ceiling.  There are a couple of plaster repairs that can be carried out to garage ceilings. Please refer to garage ceiling plaster repairs blog post for further information.

Water damage

Water damage due to blocked or inadequate down pipes, broken tiles, poorly maintained roof, plumbing, and accidents are the common causes. Repairs are generally carried out by removing damaged areas and replaced with new plasterboard.

 

It is more important to address the issue first.

Rain Head
Rainwater Head / Box Gutter

Check with a plumber whether more down  pipes are needed and for added measure install box gutter / rainwater head  as this will prevent flooding into  your ceiling.

 

Rainwater Heads / Box Gutters

Roof maintenance is important. Clean cutters, check and unblock down pipes periodically, inspect the roof tiles for any missing or cracked tiles and loose ridge caps.

Missing Mortar

Insurance claims can be made for plaster repair costs due to storm water damage. Check with your insurer and policy.

Poor Workmanship

Unfortunately common especially to garage plasterboard ceilings. Sometimes an oversight and budget issues or non compliant trades not recognising standards and requirements for certain construction situations. When sighted and addressed early, plaster repairs can be carried out with minimal costs.

Loads on plaster ceiling and walls

Ground floor plaster ceilings can develop cracks due to the first floor movement. Additional weight upstairs, house members, furniture, movement or sagging timber joist are all factors. For walls, additional loads causing wall to distort and plaster wall will crack. A structural engineer would need to assess the cause before and wall or ceiling plaster repairs are carried out.

Temperature fluctuations

Differences in temperature especially to larger areas can cause plaster ceilings and walls to crack. Many materials are used in a house and every material expand and contract with hot and cold conditions. There are a few ways to rectify this issue and these can be discussed on site.

Author adminPosted on April 13, 2020February 6, 2021Tags balwyn, box hill, brighton, bulleen, camberwell, canterbury, caulfield, doncaster, elsternwick, elwood, external plastering, garage plaster ceiling, glen iris, hawthorn, ivanhoe, melbourne suburbs, middle park, Plaster, plastering, rendering, Repair, richmond, sagging, sandringham, south melbourn, St. Kilda, surrey hills, toorak, walls, Water

Blog

Solid Plastering – Rendering

Rendering or Solid Plastering is the application of a sand / cement and sometimes lime mix to the construction of buildings to internal and external masonry walls with a smooth or textured final result .

Rendering is mainly aesthetic but can be used for waterproofing and fire rating to walls.

Rendering finishes come in many types to required look such as;

  • Textured finish
  • rough-cast or pebble dash
  • smooth sand finish
  • troweled finish
  • stucco finish

The possibilities are open to the imagination and always looking forward to challenging rendering projects.

Author adminPosted on April 8, 2020February 6, 2021Tags balwyn, box hill, brighton, bulleen, camberwell, canterbury, caulfield, doncaster, elsternwick, elwood, external plastering, glen iris, hawthorn, ivanhoe, melbourne suburbs, middle park, Plaster, plastering, rendering, richmond, sandringham, solid, south melbourn, St. Kilda, surrey hills, toorak

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Lath and Plaster

What is Lath and Plaster

Lath and plaster is a building process used to finish mainly interior dividing walls and ceilings. It consists of narrow strips of wood (lathes) which are nailed horizontally across the wall studs or ceiling joists and then coated in plaster. The technique derives from an earlier, more primitive, process called wattle and daub.

(Lath seen from the back with brown coat oozing through)

In Canada and the United States the laths were generally sawn, but in the United Kingdom and its colonies riven or split hardwood laths, of random lengths and sizes, were often used. Splitting the timber along its grain greatly improved strength and durability.  Lath and plaster largely fell out of favour in the U.K. after the introduction of plasterboard in the 1930s. In Canada and the United States it remained in use until drywall began to replace the process in the 1950s.

Each wall frame is covered in lath, tacked at the studs. The lath is typically about one inch (2.5 cm) wide by four feet (1.22 meters) long by 1⁄4 inch (6.4 mm) thick. Each horizontal course of lath is spaced about 3⁄8 inch (9.5 mm) away from its neighbouring courses.

Temporary lath guides are then placed vertically to the wall, usually at the studs. Plaster is then applied, typically using a wooden board as the application tool. The applier drags the board upward over the wall, forcing the plaster into the gaps between the lath and leaving a layer on the front the depth of the temporary guides, typically about 1⁄4 inch (6.4 mm). A helper feeds new plaster onto the board, as the plaster is applied in quantity. When the wall is fully covered, the vertical lath “guides” are removed, and their “slots” are filled in, leaving a fairly uniform undercoat.

In three coat plastering it is standard to apply a second layer in the same fashion, leaving about a half inch of rough, sandy plaster (called a brown coat or browning(UK). A smooth, white finish coat goes on last. After the plaster is completely dry, the walls are ready to be painted. In this article’s photo (“lath seen from the back…”) the curls of plaster are called keys and are necessary to keep the plaster on the lath. Traditional lime based mortar/plaster often incorporates horsehair which reinforces the plasterwork, thereby helping to prevent the keys from breaking away.

Eventually the wood laths became less common, and were replaced with rock lath (also known as “button board”), which is a type of gypsum wall board with holes spaced regularly across it, usually in sheets sized 2 feet (24 in) by 4 feet (48 in) (60 cm by 120 cm). The purpose of the four-foot length is so that the sheet of lath reaches exactly across three wall studs, which are spaced 16 inches (410 mm) apart on centre (United States building code standard measurements). The holes serve the same purpose as the spaces between the wood lath strips, allowing plaster to ooze through the board when the plaster is applied, making the keys to hold the plaster to the wall board.

In addition to rock lath, there were various types of metal lath which is categorized according to weight, type of ribbing, and whether the lath is galvanized or not. Metal lathing was spaced across a 13.5 inch center, attached by tie wires using lathers’ nippers. Sometimes, the mesh was dimpled to be self-furring.

Lath and plaster has been mostly replaced with solid drywall or plasterboard (also a type of gypsum wall board, although a bit thicker), since it is faster and less expensive to install.

Advantages

An advantage of using lath is for ornamental or unusual shapes. For instance, building a rounded wall would be difficult if drywall were used exclusively, as drywall is not flexible enough to allow tight radii. Wire mesh often used for exterior Stucco is also found in combination or replacement of lath and plaster which serves similar purpose.

Traditional lath and plaster has superior sound-proofing qualities when used with lime plaster (which is denser than modern gypsum board).

In many historic buildings lath and plaster ceilings have a major role for the prevention of fire spread. “They are critical to the protection of horizontal elements such as timber joisted floors, including the flooring on top, which in terms of fire performance is often in a poor condition due to the presence of gaps.

Source:- Wikipedia

Author adminPosted on April 8, 2020February 6, 2021Tags balwyn, box hill, brighton, bulleen, camberwell, canterbury, caulfield, doncaster, elsternwick, elwood, ivanhoe, lath, melbourne suburbs, middle park, patch, Plaster, plastering, repairs, Restore, richmond, sandringham, south melbourn, St. Kilda, surrey hills, toorak

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Chimney Restorations

Restoring or remodelling chimneys is often overlooked !

Reason – not often do we look up at our roofs, neglecting the conditions of chimneys which are deteriorating from weather conditions over many years

Before

After

Restoration can be expensive depending on the extent of deterioration. One major expense is scaffolding and protecting the roof.

 

Author adminPosted on April 6, 2020February 6, 2021Tags balwyn, box hill, brighton, bulleen, camberwell, canterbury, caulfield, chimney, doncaster, elsternwick, elwood, external plastering, glen iris, hawthorn, ivanhoe, melbourne suburbs, middle park, rendering, repairs, Restore, richmond, sandringham, south melbourn, St. Kilda, surrey hills, toorak

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Garage Ceiling Repairs

Signs of sagging ceiling

Garage ceilings have been an issue for many years.                                      

Noticeable signs are sagging ceiling, garage roller door jamming or a complete collapse. Common problems are storm water damage and poor workmanship.

Sign of sagging ceiling

Options to repair plaster garage ceilings are;

  • Re-fixed using screws if not yet collapsed or sagging excessively  – less expensive but not fully guaranteed.
  • Better option is to fix wooden strapping along plaster joints using screws to garage ceiling joists in a cross pattern.
Ceiling secured using timber strapping

This option  guarantees that garage ceiling is secure from collapsing.

With a total garage plaster ceiling collapse or extensive damage, the only option is to replace the collapsed section or entire plaster ceiling. When replacing the entire plaster ceiling I highly recommend fixing metal furring channels / metal battens at 450mm. centres (see pictures below) to truss joists that are often 600mm centres then fixing new plasterboard ceiling using screws and glue. This guarantees 100% workmanship. Of course this is the most expensive exercise.

 

Existing trusses at 600mm. spacing
New Metal Furring channels fixed at 450mm. spacing

Complete new ceiling ready for painting

 

For more technical information on plaster and plasterboard standards 

Click Here

 

Author adminPosted on April 6, 2020April 13, 2022Tags balwyn, box hill, brighton, bulleen, camberwell, canterbury, caulfield, Damage, doncaster, elsternwick, elwood, garage plaster ceiling, glen iris, hawthorn, Installation. Plaster, ivanhoe, melbourne suburbs, middle park, Repair, richmond, sagging, sandringham, south melbourn, St. Kilda, surrey hills, toorak, Water

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  • Brighton
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